October 13 Sunday
Arrive at train station 6AM after a fitful night. We are deluged as we get off the train by many many hustlers trying to book us on their bus to Bac Ha. Reminds me of having to fight off the guys grabbing our luggage in the airport in Caracas. So we settle with one who puts us on an empty mini bus but we refuse to pay him until we see the driver start the bus. When no progress is being made after half an hour, we hop off, make a good deal with a taxi, and we're off. It's a two hour ride up in gorgeous mountains. Women in very elaborate Hmong dress that we saw in the museum yesterday are walking on the road, riding on motorcycles, and working the rice fields. The photos are on the camera so I'll have to figure out how to send them.
The market is most amazing.
Our next hotel, CatCat View, arranged for our drive from Bac Ha to Sa Pa which serendipitously included a visit to a Hmong village and a stop at the Vietnam/China border where a snack stand TV had the live broadcast of the funeral of Vietnamese General Giap. He died last week age 102. He's the guy who defeated the French and then the Americans, whipped our ass to end that war, very revered. Here's an obit from the LA Times.
Our hotel in Sapa, floor to ceiling glass walls in my room with very dramatic, incredible mountain views. I'll take photos tomorrow including the wide patios and steps running off in different directions to different rooms. Reminds me of the configuration in Ziajuantenejo. (Everything reminds me of something - sorry 'bout that).
Left a nice pair of pants on the train so I'm off to dinner in wrinkles. Tired but very glad I'm here.
